Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Sandra Betzina Today's Fit - Vogue 1071


Vogue 1071 is one of the newest additions to the Today’s Fit line by Sandra Betzina. When I saw it on the website, I loved the View A hoodie from the start and couldn’t wait to get the pattern. I began with adding 6” to the length, but ultimately needed only 3 ½ inches. So this is running consistent to Sandra’s length sizing – short! I also wanted to add length to the sleeves and went with the “J” size cutting line. Something you should be aware of, especially if you are using a larger size and your knit is less than 60” wide – oops, your sleeve runneth over. Easily remedied, instead of cutting on the fold, I added ¼” to the fold line and cut out to seam together at the center front and center back. Actually I liked the addition of a quietly more flattering vertical line. If you want your sleeves longer, or wear a larger size and your fabric isn’t 60” wide, give yourself an extra yard so you can have enough to do this. Fortunately this was a Jo-Ann’s Red Tag 50% off sale knit fabric and I had purchased extra in case of shrinkage. Sandra also has you use fusible stay tape around the neckline. I didn’t have any, didn’t even know they had such a thing, so I used regular stay tape. I’m glad I did as I ultimately removed it. She even mentions in the instructions the hood may be larger than the neckline. It was. Also, the neckline comes up a little higher than you may be comfortable with. By removing the stay tape, not only did the hood go in perfectly, but it gave me a little more ease in the neckline, preventing the tugging during wearing. I loved how the hood collar drape looks in the front and back. And it is actually wearable size to wear on your head, if so inclined. There are two hood options, lined or unlined. I self-lined it, using the reverse side of the knit. Another fun idea would be to use a different fabric for the hood. If you have a heavier knit fabric, you may want to reconsider and make it unlined. The extra weight will pull it back. I was surprised even with my lightweight knit while wearing it today I’m still giving it a tug towards the front every once in a while. The dolman sleeves are dramatically dropped, so it doesn’t look like the top is too big as what can happen with this style. The upper and lower sleeve seams end up on the bias and I like the flare at the wrist/sleeve hem. However, you should note it does narrow right above the elbow, with about 1” of ease. It’s a different, unexpected look. That’s fine with a lightweight knit, but you may want to add a little extra to the seam allowances in case you use a thicker knit or are uncertain how it will fit.
I was so happy with how this turned out, I went right back into the stash to find more fabric to make it again. This would also be a cute top done a la the View B dress version without the hood. I’m not too sure yet about the dress. Maybe the dress done casually with a hood instead?

No comments: