Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Sandra Betzina Today's Fit Vogue 1164 - View A Top

The first (home) run of Sandra Betzina's Today's Fit Vogue 1164 - View A top. This turned into a wearable muslin! I wanted to check the length and fit before cutting into my targeted fabric.

First of all, this pattern runs long - the sleeves, the body. I only had to add 1" to both. Usually it's 1 1/2 to 2". You can also get an extra 1 1/2" from cutting on the "J" size line along the bottom and wrap.

I liked many things about this pattern --

Great versatility potential - you can either use a knit or a stretch woven. Long or short sleeved. Can't wait to try the shorter version for warmer weather wardrobing.

Styling -- The three darts on each front piece help ease and style the wrap over fronts, which are secured by two large snaps on the inside. And the neckline does.not.gape! The raglan, two-piece sleeves fit perfectly. I also took advantage of Sandra's suggestion to put a bit of 1/4" elastic centered just above the waist to help cinch in the back a little. It was just right and very J.Jill-ish. I have a J.Jill velour shirt which has the same styling.


If you look at the pattern envelope photo, those sleeves look a little tight, don't they? I thought so, too, and erred on the side of caution and cut the width starting about 2" down from the armscye along the "G" size. The resulting sleeves are perfect, just a little on the loose side but works with the stretch velour thickness. I plan to keep this for future tops, baste and adjust according to the fabric.

I did not relish the thought of moving the darts when I added length near the waist. I had an idea to cut the dart legs approximately 4" to "lift" them up, insert the tissue paper and then tape down. Worked!










One thing you should note - the front is lined. That means two things - it is hemmed in process and you need to determine the finished length first. OK, three things -- And find a lining fabric. You can also self-fabric line if your fabric is lightweight enough. A velour - no. Sandra suggests a stretch mesh or tricot. Even living in the 4th largest city in the U.S., trying to find these fabrics is locally was difficult. But I did have some leftover TIGER print lightweight 4-way stretch knit, which worked just fine. A little peek of the tiger beneath is fun!

The instructions also call for fusible stay tape. Jo-Ann's didn't carry this either, so I made do with regular stay tape.

Next on the sewing horizon - 1165, Sandra's new pleated blouse. Someone has made this already and it is gorgeous. Take a peek at Sandra's Power Sewing website under the Garment Gallery tab.
Update 1-31-10: I found stretch mesh knit at High Fashion Fabrics (thank you, Peggy L!). It comes in a few different colors beyond black, beige and white -- plum, navy, etc. Even some metallics and glitter! Prices range from $5.99 to $13.99 per yard.

Update -- Here's a link to my February 27 post with two more recent versions!

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