Thursday, September 10, 2009

Sandra Betzina Today's Fit Vogue 8267 - Blouse


Suffice to say, start flipping through your pattern stash or scouring the Internet right now to find this Sandra Betzina Vogue Today's Fit 8267 OOP pattern! The blouse is GORGEOUS! I have been looking for a flattering wrap blouse for like forever.

I love, love, love the collar, and the hidden inseam button closure at the peplum... This is definitely a repeater-keeper!

For this first run, I used a stash Jo-Ann's silkie poly leopard print in teal blue and cream with a touch of silver metalllic. Yeah, I know. No tears would be shed if it didn't turn out, but if it did, it could be a fun/funky top to wear. The positive-negative color mirroring was pure lucky happenstance.

By now I know the Vogue Today's Fit patterns tend to run a little short on me, so I automatically add 2" to the sleeve and 2 1/2" to 3" in the body length. Because of the non-typical pattern piece shape, I went with 2 1/2" and I think I really needed that extra 1/2" maybe even 1" more. It's wearable now, but the front design comes up in the center, and I found myself tugging it down a little. I may just even out the front because I like the length at the side seams and back.

If you lengthen the front/back, add a little extra to the peplum length, as it correspondingly increases the width due to the off-grain front opening angle. In fact, keep an extra scrap handy to add a piece in the back, if necessary. You need to be able to overlap the center fronts for the button closure; and with the gathering of the blouse when attaching the peplum, it could be a little too tight and you may need to release some of the gathers. Sandra even expects that, as she mentions it in the directions. She even says, "DO NOT PANIC!"

Oh, and if you lengthen the front, be sure to lengthen the facing pieces and the collar! I thought I was ahead of the game when I added the extra length to the facings, only to come up short literally with the collar. But it was all win-win - while I didn't have enough of the print for the collar, I did have a piece of black challis - which I think ultimately worked in my favor and calmed it down a little. I love the asymmetrical collar and a contrasting fabric really shows it off.

Sandra's high cut dolman sleeve was perfect under the arms. There is a side dart so there isn't a lot of fabric under the arm to drive you crazy - my pet peeve about cut-on sleeves. There are three options for the peplum closure - a cool buckle, D rings, or cutting an extra tie end. The shape of the wrap-over opening helps it hug the body and stay closed -- though I will add a small snap under the collar wrap at midpoint for extra security.

Before beginning the cut out, I researched the Web and didn't find anyone else who had sewn this pattern. So I sent Sandra an email - asking about her versions of it and if she had any ideas, inspiration and tips for this pattern. (If you are lucky enough to have seen her in person and her pattern trunk shows, you know she uses interesting fabrics and does some neat variations.)

Sandra replied, "I made that outfit in a silk knit print for the top and black knit for the pants and the collar. I just love it and so will you. You can also make it in a lightweight suede. Happy sewing. sandra"

OMG - Suede?! Knits?! (Sandra emailed me back?! ) Maybe if Vogue had listed them as fabric suggestions beyond "rayon, georgette and wool jersey," this pattern would not be out-of-print!

I'm heading back to make it again. Sandra is right - I do just love it and so will you.

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Original post from 9-3-09
Surprisingly, I haven't found anyone else on the Web who has made this now OOP pattern. So I am giving it a shot. It is in the cutting out stage right now. I'll keep you posted how it goes!

1 comment:

  1. I have the pattern but never got around to sewing it. I can see I better whip one up - yours is great.

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