Simplicity 5197

Funky style! This fabric was a find at Wal-Mart about 3 years ago. It was hand dyed. Even after washing it, I still found threads wrapped about making the small white circles. I cut it on the crossgrain to play with the layout and color/design placement.


What did I like about this pattern? The darts. Well positioned and kept the tunic from being too boxy and full. The opportunity to embellish the neckline and sleeves with either stitching or beads or whatever. I used my Viking 1100 F-2 quilting stitch along the neckline, since the fabric already had a lot going on (click right photo to see. I kept and didn't cut the long connecting stitch).

The versatility of the pattern with fabric choices. Depending upon your age and style, you can use cotton, lightweight denim/pique/poplin/twill, sateen/linen; crepe and crepe back satin, laundered silks and rayons, gauze, double georgette. I finally have a trendy tunic top in my wardrobe suited for my height with some adjustments. Which were --


The sleeves -- I added 2 1/4 inches to the sleeve length (and also 2 1/4" in the front and 1 1/4" back main pattern pieces). After the first trial run, I noticed the sleeves were a little narrow and not as full as I wanted. I cut the sleeve pattern up the center and belled/widened the bottom 1 1/2," tapering back to the sleeve cap. Also, measure and compare your bicep/upper arm to the pattern. Even with the bell shape, it was a little tight when I raised my arms. Per Nancy Zieman's Busy Woman's Fitting Book, you need 2" of ease minimum in the upper arm. When I checked, I saw this pattern had only 1" with my arm measurement. I'll use her pivot method to add that extra inch if I decide to make it again. Another odd sleeve feature to me was the sleeve hem slit. It was on the inside/underarm seam. Wouldn't it be showcased better if it was on the outer side? You already have a separate facing piece, easy enough to flip it over. At first I thought I sewed it backwards, but nope, look at the drawing. My fashionista daughter agreed, too.

The neckline -- it came up too high and wasn't that flattering. I still wanted the same style, but decided curvy was better than choppy, and redrew the opening.

Overall, if you are looking for a tunic pattern, this could be fun. But keep in mind you'll need to do some fine-tuning, and probably make a muslin fitting first. Especially when you can find Simplicity's on sale for 99 cents to $1.99; at that price I would expect to have a little fun with the tweaking!